Bike and Boating around South Holland

Steven’s Bike and Boating TRIP around South Holland

Sometimes, the best trips aren’t planned—they just happen. I’d always wanted to do a “Bike and Boat” tour, and when a last-minute cabin opened on the MS Normandie through one of our local partners, I jumped at the chance. I didn’t have time for the full week, but a short break was better than nothing. So, I confirmed by place on the sailing and set off from Manchester on the 5:55 AM KLM flight, heading for the Netherlands on Wednesday. The actual sailing departure was the previous Saturday.

The plan was to join the ship in Utrecht, but it was setting off at 10:00 AM which was too early for me to collect my bike from the ship. Instead, I arranged to pick up my electric bike later that afternoon in the charming town of Schoonhoven and meet the ship there.

Before heading there, I had a few hours to explore Utrecht. Just a short train ride from Schiphol and about 12 euros, Utrecht is a lively university city known for its canals and often called “Little Amsterdam.” It’s home to the Netherlands’ busiest railway station and was already buzzing with energy as the city prepared for King’s Day and King’s Night festivities at the weekend. I hired a bike for 8 euros from a local shop and rode around the city, visiting FC Utrecht’s stadium and even popping into the Miffy (Nijntje) Museum, a nostalgic nod to the famous Dutch children’s cartoon bunny.

By mid-afternoon, I boarded a regional bus to Schoonhoven, a picturesque riverside town with a history rooted in silverwork and clockmaking. It’s also a regular stop for river cruises, including the MS Normandie, my home for the next few nights. The ship, a sleek 91-metre river cruiser with capacity for around 100 guests, was waiting at the quay. My upper-deck cabin came with twin beds, a panoramic window, and a private shower with Wi-Fi extending from the nearby public areas.

Onboard life was relaxed and friendly. Dinner was a daily four-course affair (starter, soup, main, dessert), and the quality was consistently good. Breakfast was a generous buffet with both hot and cold options ideal for cycling. Drinks weren’t included, but happy hour deals made them affordable, and a tab made payments easy at the end of week. The crew were fantastic and were warm, helpful, and always smiling.

The rain hit hard that evening in Schoonhoven, but I’d already explored the town by then so I just went for a short stroll for an ice cream. After nearly 24 hours on the move after finishing work the day before, I turned in early, ready for the next day’s ride.

Cycling to Rotterdam via Gouda

The weather forecast was bleak on Thursday: heavy rain and April showers all day. Still, I was determined to make the most of it. The route would take me to Rotterdam, then on to Schiedam, where the ship would be docked for the next two nights. Incredibly, the weather remained dry during the day and there was brilliant sunshine on Friday and Saturday morning.

I set off from Schoonhoven under grey skies, passing my first Dutch windmill and rolling through the countryside on my e-bike. My first stop was Gouda, home of the world-famous cheese. I sampled a few slivers in a touristy shop but didn’t linger long enough for the cheese market. Instead, I took a quick spin around the city centre before continuing.

Navigating out of Gouda proved a bit tricky. I got lost on the Ring Road, a reminder that the Dutch cycle network—based on “Knooppunten” numbered junctions—works best with some advance planning. Miss a number, and it’s easy to veer off course. Alternatively, the red-bordered local signs are reliable for direct routes. Using the navigation app would have been better, but I prefer the challenge of using a map!

Near the outskirts, I bumped into two fellow passengers from the ship, a couple from Germany. We joined forces and rode along a scenic dyke path beside the Hollandsche IJssel, a highlight of the day. With the help of my e-bike, I cruised effortlessly through villages and past open fields, enjoying the ride even as clouds loomed above.

Eventually, we arrived in bustling Rotterdam, one of the Netherlands’ most dynamic cities. I made a stop at the historic ss Rotterdam, a former cruise ship now docked as a hotel and attraction. Over coffee and cake, I enjoyed the café onboard the historic liner and rode to the brutalist Euromast tower via the cyclists’ tunnel under the River Maas.

From there, I rode to Schiedam, a 750-year-old town just outside Rotterdam, home to the country’s tallest windmill. The ship was moored nearby, and it was just a five-minute bike ride back onboard.

That evening, the atmosphere was great thanks to a live performance from a Dutch singer who had the whole ship dancing with his renditions of English, Dutch and German party classics. We also caught up with our Dutch colleague Edwin and his wife Cindy from Active on Holiday NL who travelled over from Arnhem to meet me.

Freewheelin’ along the coast: Scheveningen and the North Sea Coast

Friday was a free day, so I planned a 60-kilometre ride to the seaside resort of Scheveningen via Delft and The Hague. Leaving Schiedam, I followed the River Schie north, a lovely but crowded route thanks to the hordes of students commuting to Delft University.

After a brief look around Delft’s historic centre, I pushed on to The Hague, a city famous for its courthouses, but was also modern, high-rise, and full of surprises. I didn’t stay long, as I was eager to reach the coast at Scheveningen.

From The Hague and the North Sea coast, I improvised my way south to the Hook of Holland about 20 km away. Without a map, I relied on local signage, which, thankfully, is reliable in the Netherlands. Though I didn’t get the scenic route through the sand dunes, I did arrive at the port town where ferries connect the UK and NL. I remembered a wonderful cycle path running along the Maas and Rotterdam’s port from a previous trip, so I took it again. At 40 km long from the city centre to the North Sea, Rotterdam’s port is the largest in Europe, and riding alongside it offered fascinating views of shipping traffic and a surprisingly peaceful riverside cycle path.

After two full days of cycling and half a day in Utrecht, I’d clocked up more than 180 km on the bike overall. The e-bike made a huge difference. Riding in ‘tour’ mode gave me a solid boost while preserving battery life, though I had to recharge it nightly in my cabin.

That evening, we joined a harbour tour in Rotterdam to learn more about its importance in global shipping, followed by our final onboard meal: the Captain’s Dinner.

Back to Manchester on the early KLM flight

With an early start the next day, I left the MS Normandie at 5 AM in Schiedam, caught my flight from Schiphol back to Manchester at 1000, and was home in Rochdale by lunchtime. I did not complete the full tour, but I do know that if I had joined the ship on its scheduled start day earlier in the week, then the rest of the week would have been just as enjoyable.

There are still cabins available on this sailing and you can view the full 2025 Southern Netherlands tour itinerary here.